When I hear "I only use Dove"
This line can really make someone who makes handmade soap wince.
Wait, that's not terribly easy. Their site doesn't list ingredients...I had to get them off a cosmetics archive site.
To be fair, I'm using the ingredients of their gentlest "beauty bar" vs. our second-gentlest soap. The most gentle is the Castile, but since that's made of only Water, Lye and Olive Oil I chose our next-gentlest one.
I've listed all the ingredients in descending order, as is done for cosmetics. Dove has to do that because that format is required by law for cosmetics and it's not just soap. Ours are listed that way here because I want you to make an informed decision about our products. Since soap is not a cosmetic, all we legally have to list is that it's soap, where it's made and how much it weighs. Everything else is there because I want you to know.
The most important thing about any recipe is going be to how well-balanced it is. No matter what I put in our soap, I make sure it's a balanced recipe and that there's always something called a "superfat," which means balancing the lye used with an excess of oils/fats to ensure there is no lye remaining in the final product. The percentage of superfat in a soap is what's going to make it feel more or less moisturizing. The slight excess of oils/fats allows the soap to clean your skin without stripping it of its natural oils. If you've ever used soap that was lye-heavy, you'd remember it. (I find lye burns to be itchy, myself.)
Ingredients in Dove beauty bar for sensitive skinRead, think and compare to handmadeDove beauty bar for sensitive skin
1. Sodium Lauroyl Isethionate
-A mild synthetic detergent, used for cleansing. It adds to emulsification and degreasing, and may dry or irritate skin, especially sensitive skin.
2. Stearic Acid
-a hardening agent.
3. Sodium Tallowate
-Another way to say tallow or beef fat, which has been saponified. This is done by combining it with water and an alkali. You're left with a salt, which is the "sodium" and "-ate" part of this ingredient. When you combine tallow with lye (but don't want to put lye on your label), this is how you write it. If we did this, we'd list the lard as "sodium lardate" and leave the sodium hydroxide off. Tallow, which is fat from around the loins and/or kidneys of a cow, contributes to a hard bar with creamy lather. It's not exceptionally cleansing, but when combined with other ingredients can add to a balanced bar.
-Lye is a strong alkaline which is used in many different processes. Food-grade lye is used in the preparation of certain foods, including green olives, mandarin oranges and pretzels. Lower grades which are unsuitable for food are used in various cleaners, such as drain cleaner and oven cleaner. When used in soap, it is essential to create a well-balanced recipe to ensure there is no lye remaining in the final product. We use food-grade lye in our products. Lower grades may contain unknown impurities which can effect the final result. There's no way to know from this list which grade lye is used in this product.
4. Sodium Palmitate
-Palm oil + lye. Palm oil contributes to hardness and lather, but when used in too high a percentage can be drying.
5. Lauric Acid
-Otherwise know as SLS, this is a foaming agent and synthetic detergent, commonly used as a degreaser in shampoos. It dissolves the oils on your skin so the water can rinse them away. An unfortunate side effect of stripping your skin's natural oils can be irritation and drying of the skin.
6. Sodium Isethionate
-A mild synthetic detergent which creates dense lather and is non-drying. It is also used in shampoo as an anti-static agent.
8. Sodium Stearate
-Stearic Acid + lye. A surfactant, which basically means it clings to dirt and helps water rinse it off.
9. Cocamidopropyl Betaine
-A synthetic surfactant derived from coconut oil and Dimethylaminopropylamine.
10. Sodium Cocoate
-Coconut oil + lye. Coconut oil contributes greatly to the hardness and lather of the bar. It is also high in cleansing properties. It's best to balance this oil with other ingredients, making sure not to use too high a percentage, as it can be drying when used in excess.
11. Sodium Palm Kernelate
-Palm Kernel oil + lye. Palm Kernel oil is used to add hardness and bubbly lather.
12. Sodium Chloride
-Salt. Used after the saponification process to draw out water and glycerine for a harder bar. (And then they can sell the glycerine or add it to other products.)
13. Tetrasodium EDTA
-Used in place of parabens, this is a water softener and preservative made from formaldehyde and sodium cyanide. It also reduces soap scum and improves lather. There are mixed studies out there about whether this can be absorbed by the skin or not.
14. Tetrasodium Etidronate
-Another water softener. It helps to prevent the magnesium and calcium in your water stick to the bathtub and create soap scum.
-Primarily used as a flavor enhancer, this is also used to create a sweet fragrance in some products. There's been a study (on mice) that showed this helped them absorb aluminum.
16. Titanium Dioxide
-A whitening agent. Makes it all purty-like.